Tuesday, December 1, 2009

Pengiunos! And the worlds best breakfest.




This is a bit of a backtrack, since Hobbit posted faster than me.


After the strenuous schedule of going to the beach, drinking beer, riding horses through a national park and down the beach in Uruguay, we opted for a change of scenery.
Rather than committing to a 48+ hour bus ride down to Ushuaia, we decide to take a cheaper, four hour flight to the "End of the World". This city at the southern tip of the continent is the closest that most people get to Antartica without taking a cruise ship (in another life, perhaps). It´s generally a tourist trap, but beautiful nonetheless. It´s COLD! Even in spring,




there is a sharp chill on the air, and the days are LONG. Sunrise is around 4 am and sets at 10 or so. We spent a couple days in a quiet hostel run by a sweet Argentinian guy and his Basset Hound and adopted Sheepdog. We went hiking in the park on the Beagle Channel, saw some glaicers and wildlife including horses, and generally recovered from Uruguay. While we were in Ushuaia, Hobbit received the news that his dog, Mr. Bojangles had been hit by a car and died. I´m sure that anyone reading this understand the deep love that Hobbit has for his friend and companion, and the sadness at this loss. I would like to thank Keith for his sensitivity and kindness in caring for Bo and Hobbit. No one could have handled this tragic situation better. Anyone who knew Mr. Bo will miss his crazy love, and we carry his memory with us on our journey.

After leaving Ushuaia, on the 12 hour ride to Punta Arenas in Chile, we met a Swiss girl named Sibylle, who´s been traveling with us ever since. The bus ride itself was kind of cool! I saw my first Vaicuno (a larger, wild version of a llama) lots of sheep, and even some gauchos (cowboys wearing berets, vests and baggy pants tucked into boots) herding them! We arrived late at the Hostel Independencia in Punta Arenas. If you´re ever in the area I reccommend it for the following reasons:
1. Eduardo. The owner is the tour guide, therapist, entertainment director, matchmaker, cook, mountain guide, and physicial therapist. Need a tent? He´s got one. Need a bus? He´s on the phone for hours getting you a seat on a sold out bus. Need a prescription? He has a medicine cabinet stocked with your first dose and directions to the pharmacy. Want to stay at his hostel but it´s sold out? No problem, he´ll be happy to pitch you a tent in the yard until a room opens up, or make calls to find you another hostel.
2. Breakfest. Eduardo makes the best hostel breakfest on the face of the planet. Omlette, yogurt, cereal, warm, fresh bread and jam, coffee, tea, juice. It is FANTASTIC.
3. Other than Eduardo and his breakfest, there is no good reason to be in Punta Arenas. He will try to help you find things to do, but it´s really just a place to go when you´re trying to get to somewhere else.
While there, we added another member to our happy little family. Sebastian the German-French physicist decided to join us on our trek through Torres del Paine. He´s been with us ever since and we have just tons of fun. The busses are constantly a problem here, never available when you need it, and full. So we got stuck in Punta Arenas and decided to take a


tour of the nearby penguin colony. It was (predictably) adorable! They are in the middle of taking turns eating and caring for the eggs, so we got to see them finding each other, dancing and kissing in their little routines, and trading places.

One last note for any of my political friends reading this...
The yard sign war is alive and well in Chile and Uruguay! They are everywhere, and the campaigns have competing rallies on opposite sides of the street, waving flags and blaring music. They even doorknock and pass out political literature! I´m really enjoying watching the process and comparing notes. (Don´t worry Mom, I´m staying out of it.) It is hard to resist just stepping into a campaign office to ask about their voter registration systems and if they have databases like ours, but I have Hobbit to help hold me back!

That´s all for now. I´m almost a month in, and already I feel like I´m short on time. In my head I start planning the next trip...

Ciao!
Sarah

1 comment:

  1. Hi Guys,
    Looks like you are having a wonderful time. I just wanted to say to Hobbit I am so sorry to hear about Bo. I understand how you are feeling, we had to put Nikita to sleep last weekend, it was quite unexpected. Hugs and more hugs to you.
    Nick and Ape

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